Month: July 2026

July 19

The Roadside Tavern, Lisdoonvarna Billy Baldwin 2026

Another lazy day in Doolin. We got up slowly, drank coffee slowly, ate slowly, practiced some tunes……….not so slowly. Late morning Bridget got a message from her cousin Ronan. He lives not far from here in Ennis but messaged from out on Inishmore, one of the Aran Islands. He suggested getting together for dinner in Ennistymon or Lisdoonvarna. We could think of places in Ennistymon but not  Lisdoonvarna. We got ourselves together and headed for Pot Duggans, which we remembered had some outdoor seating near the river Cullenagh that runs through town. We got there before Ronan, ordered our plates and drinks and waited under the partial shade of a tree for him to arrive.

James, Morgan and I were looking forward to hearing Tara Breen at Fitz’s, it was the only plan we’d made for the day. Tara is a renowned fiddler from County Clare. We spotted Ronan walking towards us and greeted him. He’s a second cousin to Bridget on her Mom’s side of the family. The last time we’d seen Ronan was 2018 in Ennis, so it was good to see him and catch up. We had a pleasant dinner and chat and found out that Eugene’s Whiskey Bar is in flux. Apparently Eugene would like to sell and retire but there’s some details that are complicating it. On our last trip we learned from Eugene that he owns the building, which he told us dates from the 1700’s. It’s been in his family for generations and because of that Eugene was exempt from changes in code that effect licensing an establishment such as his. If he sells though, the buyer will have to invest significant funds to bring it up to code and retain the operating license. We’ve gone by The Bar three times and it’s been closed. We were hoping to play there again but that’s now looking unlikely.

We bid Ronan farewell and headed back to Doolin. Made a quick stop by our rental, grabbed some necessities and headed down to Fitz’s to hear Tara Breen. Well…..somebody that manages their website screwed up because we were informed that Tara was on vacation and wouldn’t be playing. There was a session going on, but there were three fiddlers, we recognized Seamus Hynes, he plays flute left handed, and there was a keyboard as well but not a likely session for us. Sheeesh!!! So, we hit all the usual spots, nada! We thought, let’s check out the Roadside.

Billy Baldwin and James Hunter 2016. Mayuko, Roadside Tavern 2026

Down the road 15 minutes and we’re outside The Roadside Tavern. Morgan stepped inside and came out to say that a musician was packing up and the pub was quiet. People were watching the Spain vs. Argentina game under an enclosed outdoor area. We went inside and spoke to the young man tending bar, told him we’d played there many times, really loved it and that we had our instruments. He said, “it’s fine if you want to come in and play some tunes.” So we did just that. A few people drifted in to listen. A family that was having dinner seemed intrigued and stuck around. Andrew, the bartender, came with re-fills and the manager came to tell us how much they all enjoyed our playing. A young Japaneses woman named Mayuko was watching us. James and Morgan said to her “you look like a musician, you have that look about you.” She works at The Roadside and plays fiddle, loves Ireland and the music. James surprised her by speaking Japanese with her. She’s into the music and said she’d see us tonight at Fitz’s. Our old friend Billy Baldwin was sitting in an adjacent room close to the bar. He was the man behind the counter back in 2016. He retired just around Covid. He happened to be outside the pub when we visited in 2024. He’s a likable man and we’ve enjoyed seeing him each trip. The staff and manager told us to come anytime we were in the area. Kevin Griffin, a great banjo player, is going to be there Wednesday night, our last night here. We’re going to go hear him. We’re not sure if it’s an open session but if it’s not we’ll enjoy listening.. 

July 20-22

Christy McNamara asked us to join he and Clara at Fitz’s Bar, Monday night in Doolin. We weren’t going to miss it, were uncertain as to how large a session it was going to be. So decided to have dinner there so that we were in position. Does it sound like we take this seriously? We sure do! As Christy McNamara says, “well anyway”, we finished dinner and I spotted Adam Shapiro walking outside. Then Christy the harmonica player and musicians started trickling in. A young couple, who turned out to be from France came in. I look up and I see this very large man and OMG it’s Eoin O’Neill, he has a case in his hands which I know to be his bouzouki. I quietly remark to Morgan “ oh boy, Eoin O’Neill, and he’s got his bouzouki, two bouzouki’s, I wonder how this is going to go”. I don’t want to overstate this, but this for me is intimidating. If I was a jazz sax player, it would be like pulling out my sax in front of Wayne Shorter. Eoin has been part of the Clare scene since the 1970’s. He’s been featured on over 100 albums, has had a long standing show The West Wind on Clare FM. He’s a huge part of the Trad scene in Clare and Ireland in general. My impulse is to leave my instrument in its case, but I decide not to. The session starts, I mention to Christy the harmonica player that Christy McNamara isn’t here, he says “he’s usually late” and finally I see Christy McNamara looking rushed joining the circle. Eoin has big energy, he’s driving the tunes, pushing the tempo with his entire leg lifting and stomping the floor. He shouts, “come on, do it, do it.” He’s eyeing the three of us, the Americans, to see what we can do. Between tunes he says, “I heard about ye” eyeing Christy McNamara. Eoin lays out of a set and lets me accompany, I do the same and by the end of the evening he’s shaking our hands and inviting us to another session.

Well anyway, the session is great, there’s a young whistle player, whose playing is sweet and clean, the French couple consist of the man who plays Uillean Pipes, his set have that rare, sweet tone, more like North Umbrian small pipes (if you’re interested in these details you’re going to need to search Wikipedia) and she plays fiddle. They’re a lovely couple. Clara’s flute playing is very, very good, Adam is exceptional, Christy McNamara plays his tune The House Under The Hill which we recorded Friday night and learned over the weekend. He was pleased we’d learned it. We stood talking with Christy McNamara long after the session was over and we needed to vacate because a private party had booked the space. It feels like we’ve really made a solid connection with him this trip. Besides being a fine musician, a kind and gentle soul, he’s a gifted photographer.  

July 21

We’d been told that Eoin was leading an early session at 6:00pm, in Ennis at Cruises Bar in the Queens Hotel. We decide to go. We arrive in Ennis early to do some walking about, shopping, etc.The car park is a half of a block from Cruises, very convenient. We have coffee, these late nights take their toll, walk through the old part of Ennis, which brings back a lot of memories for Bridget. Her family moved to Ennis, she has cousins here, when she was 13. We walk over to Cruises with our instruments around 5:30, get some drinks, put our instruments in the session area and hang out. I walk through the session area and see all the young people who are clearly Down syndrome individuals. They’re sitting in the session area and I’m not sure what is happening. We come back a few minutes later and Eoin is sitting there with his friend David and another friend whose name I failed to get but I’ll call Mr. Harmonica. He tells us to grab some stools and sit inside the circle with him. We’re surrounded by a group of at least 15 with Down syndrome and some adults who are their care givers. A couple of them have guitars, one a ukulele, a couple with bodhran. This is going to be an interesting session. Eoin picks easy tunes, the kids add their efforts and it’s a fine cacophony. The joy on their faces is absolutely infectious. I can’t stop grinning. It becomes obvious that Eoin works with them regularly, knows many of them by name and invites two, Finn and Adam to sit between him and David. He asks some to sing songs. It’s wonderful. The look of pride and accomplishment in each of their faces is beautiful. Simple pleasures, simple joy. Life can be incredibly sweet when you see it mirrored in these precious kids. Finn keeps holding his uke like a machine gun, pointing the head of it at all of us. I mirror it back with my instrument and he laughs wildly. We high five at the end of the tune. One of the care givers sings Wild Mountain Thyme and we all join in, she’s touched as are we all. We end up with a few tunes and a song. Eoin thanks us for coming, we tell him we wouldn’t have missed it for the world. He invites us to meet them at 9:30 at The Cornerstone in Lahinch for a quieter session. We tell him we’ll be there. 

We have a quick dinner at an understated but good asian restaurant and head to Lahinch. We arrive a few minutes late and find Eoin, David and Mr. Harmonica sitting at a table inside the door. We find places to sit and join in. It’s a nice small session, just the 6 of us, Eoin is playing banjo. The rest of the evening slides by and soon it’s 11:30. We say goodnight, Eoin tells us he’s leading another session in Ennis tomorrow night and says we’re welcome. He says whether we see him tomorrow or not that it’s been a pleasure and hopes to see us again.

Our last full day in Ireland and we’re unsure what to do. We heard that Kevin Griffin is playing at the Roadside Tavern. We’ve also heard that it most likely will not be an open session. Kevin is one of Ireland’s premier banjo players and he has his preferred accompanists. The night before Eoin invited us to a session in Ennis, but Ennis is about a 40 min. drive and we have to get up early so we can get to Shannon to fly home. What to do? I’d been wanting to watch Eoin play his bouzouki, he uses the same tuning I do and watching his hands could give me some new ideas. We decide we will drive down to Doolin and have one last Fish and Chips and do a little last minute shopping. We go our separate ways to get ready and when I come down, Morgan, James and Bridget are waiting and say, “change of plans.” I wait to hear what they have in mind and they suggest we go to Ennis, they know how much I want to watch Eoin play. I have the best friends!

With that decided we go into the village of Doolin. First stop is Russell’s for Fish and Chips, which we relish. Then a nice walk from there into the village. I’m wanting to find some CD’s of local artists, of which there are many fine players. The problem turns out to be that the one and only music shop shut down three years back and no other shops have bothered to pick up the slack. Truth to tell, who the hell listens to CD’s anyway? Only us old timers I’m afraid. I did find one CD at a used book store. The owner told me it was all she had left from some of the stock that she inherited when the music store closed. So, not a total bust after all. Everyone found a little something to add to the gift pile for friends and family.

Back home to get ready for the session in Ennis. We drive up to Ennis and park in the lot that’s close to Cruises. We were just here the day before and we speculate on how much driving Clare musicians do to stay employed. Nothing’s that far apart but if you’re driving from Doolin, then uproad to Lisdoonvarna and another day to Ennistymon, then next night to Lahinch or Liscannor and then up to Ennis, that’s a lot of driving when you add it up. So, anyway we’re a bit early and nearly the first ones there except for Mr. Harmonica, of whom I finally enquire his name which is Adrian. We relax and slowly others show and it turns out to be a fine session. There’s a man named Paddy who’s lived in the USA for decades, but Eoin on listening to his accent assures he’s Belfast through and through, there’s no getting around that Northern drawl. It’s distinct, I like it. Anyway, Paddy has his wife, daughter and granddaughter with him. They sing some nice songs and Paddy lays into one that he tells us was written by a Yank who when walking in Clare years ago had a conversation with a man who turned out to be none other than Micho Russell. Micho was a great whistle player and composer and this Yank had a great relationship with Micho and wrote a song about the meeting and some of Micho’s more philosophical musings. It is a really fine song. Clara plays her flute and sings a lovely song in her wonderfully husky voice. There’s a young man, I guess his age around 13, sitting behind me playing banjo. He starts a few sets and he’s quite good. Eoin assures us his first instrument is the pipes and says he’s one of his favorite pipers. The session has a number of listeners but it’s a quiet one. Seems fitting with our leaving tomorrow. Eoin generously keeps passing the ball to us since we’re leaving tomorrow, I sing some songs, we start tune sets.

Eoin asks if he could play my instrument. He’s told me that he likes the sound of it, but this is the first time he’s asked to play it. I say of course, I’m honored, so he hands me his and we trade. I’ve seen his in numerous videos, on many CD album artwork. This instrument is iconic and I’m holding it! He and Clara begin to play a lovely tune named Coleman’s March. I think I must have been sitting looking stunned or gaping because Eoin leans over a little and says “Rick, F”. That breaks my paralysis and I capo at F and do my best to accompany. At the end Eoin looks at the instrument and says, “lovely it’s a beautiful instrument”. I’m speechless, grateful, gobsmacked! Unfortunately all things must end, well some things need ending but we’re in no hurry for this to end. But the session winds down. We linger, do our best to savor the moment, say our goodbyes and can’t wait to return.

Eoin O’Neill and Clara Butler, Cruises Pub, Ennis

So, that’s the entirety of the journey, the highs and lows. So much rich experience in just under one month. I’m grateful for our friends in Ireland, they’re becoming family. The kindness and generosity of spirit, the laughter and banter (craic), the moments of comfortable silence, the joy of sharing the music with such fine players and being enfolded into the circle thus formed. I’ve not experienced this in any other place, except with my brothers from other mothers, James and Morgan and Don. Musicians love sharing and growing through playing, of making connection, in sharing that AH HA! moment. This journey has had moments like that, where the common language of music, cuts right through the confusion, straight to the heart in the deeper moments. The heart connection is what it’s all about and part of my heart resides in Ireland. I’ll return as long as I have breath.