Our last full day in Ireland and we’re unsure what to do. We heard that Kevin Griffin is playing at the Roadside Tavern. We’ve also heard that it most likely will not be an open session. Kevin is one of Ireland’s premier banjo players and he has his preferred accompanists. The night before Eoin invited us to a session in Ennis, but Ennis is about a 40 min. drive and we have to get up early so we can get to Shannon to fly home. What to do? I’d been wanting to watch Eoin play his bouzouki, he uses the same tuning I do and watching his hands could give me some new ideas. We decide we will drive down to Doolin and have one last Fish and Chips and do a little last minute shopping. We go our separate ways to get ready and when I come down, Morgan, James and Bridget are waiting and say, “change of plans.” I wait to hear what they have in mind and they suggest we go to Ennis, they know how much I want to watch Eoin play. I have the best friends!
With that decided we go into the village of Doolin. First stop is Russell’s for Fish and Chips, which we relish. Then a nice walk from there into the village. I’m wanting to find some CD’s of local artists, of which there are many fine players. The problem turns out to be that the one and only music shop shut down three years back and no other shops have bothered to pick up the slack. Truth to tell, who the hell listens to CD’s anyway? Only us old timers I’m afraid. I did find one CD at a used book store. The owner told me it was all she had left from some of the stock that she inherited when the music store closed. So, not a total bust after all. Everyone found a little something to add to the gift pile for friends and family.
Back home to get ready for the session in Ennis. We drive up to Ennis and park in the lot that’s close to Cruises. We were just here the day before and we speculate on how much driving Clare musicians do to stay employed. Nothing’s that far apart but if you’re driving from Doolin, then uproad to Lisdoonvarna and another day to Ennistymon, then next night to Lahinch or Liscannor and then up to Ennis, that’s a lot of driving when you add it up. So, anyway we’re a bit early and nearly the first ones there except for Mr. Harmonica, of whom I finally enquire his name which is Adrian. We relax and slowly others show and it turns out to be a fine session. There’s a man named Paddy who’s lived in the USA for decades, but Eoin on listening to his accent assures he’s Belfast through and through, there’s no getting around that Northern drawl. It’s distinct, I like it. Anyway, Paddy has his wife, daughter and granddaughter with him. They sing some nice songs and Paddy lays into one that he tells us was written by a Yank who when walking in Clare years ago had a conversation with a man who turned out to be none other than Micho Russell. Micho was a great whistle player and composer and this Yank had a great relationship with Micho and wrote a song about the meeting and some of Micho’s more philosophical musings. It is a really fine song. Clara plays her flute and sings a lovely song in her wonderfully husky voice. There’s a young man, I guess his age around 13, sitting behind me playing banjo. He starts a few sets and he’s quite good. Eoin assures us his first instrument is the pipes and says he’s one of his favorite pipers. The session has a number of listeners but it’s a quiet one. Seems fitting with our leaving tomorrow. Eoin generously keeps passing the ball to us since we’re leaving tomorrow, I sing some songs, we start tune sets.
Eoin asks if he could play my instrument. He’s told me that he likes the sound of it, but this is the first time he’s asked to play it. I say of course, I’m honored, so he hands me his and we trade. I’ve seen his in numerous videos, on many CD album artwork. This instrument is iconic and I’m holding it! He and Clara begin to play a lovely tune named Coleman’s March. I think I must have been sitting looking stunned or gaping because Eoin leans over a little and says “Rick, F”. That breaks my paralysis and I capo at F and do my best to accompany. At the end Eoin looks at the instrument and says, “lovely it’s a beautiful instrument”. I’m speechless, grateful, gobsmacked! Unfortunately all things must end, well some things need ending but we’re in no hurry for this to end. But the session winds down. We linger, do our best to savor the moment, say our goodbyes and can’t wait to return.
Eoin O’Neill and Clara Butler, Cruises Pub, Ennis
So, that’s the entirety of the journey, the highs and lows. So much rich experience in just under one month. I’m grateful for our friends in Ireland, they’re becoming family. The kindness and generosity of spirit, the laughter and banter (craic), the moments of comfortable silence, the joy of sharing the music with such fine players and being enfolded into the circle thus formed. I’ve not experienced this in any other place, except with my brothers from other mothers, James and Morgan and Don. Musicians love sharing and growing through playing, of making connection, in sharing that AH HA! moment. This journey has had moments like that, where the common language of music, cuts right through the confusion, straight to the heart in the deeper moments. The heart connection is what it’s all about and part of my heart resides in Ireland. I’ll return as long as I have breath.