June 26 & 27
As often happens on our explorations here in Ireland these postings get delayed because we’re having too much fun and there’s no time to sit down and reflect on the days events. I’m combining June 26 and 27 in one post.
We traveled up to Cork city June 26. We needed to trade cars for something that had more storage space and also to play a session at The Corner House. Our last trip in 2024 we met the young bouzouki maker and superb player Macdara O’Faolain and his wife Victoria who is an extraordinary musician herself. They lead sessions in Cork and we were invited to come play. We fondly recalled our previous session and were very excited to take part in another. I’d been in contact with Macdara the last two years as we both are building instruments and like many individuals in the craft he likes sharing information and talking about the art of crafting instruments that sing. We’ve been writing one another since 2024 and he knew I was wanting to complete a bouzouki to bring with me this time. I was looking forward to having him see my latest and hear his opinion.
After trading cars at Cork Airport we headed into the city only to be greeted with Friday rush hour traffic. The session begins at 5:00 and we thought we’d allowed enough time but had not factored for the traffic. Bridget drove us like a pro and got us there just in time. We were warmly welcomed and we wedged ourselves into the small corner allotted to the session and I sit down with my Sobell Cittern next to a friendly man named Jorma. Jorma is from Finland and has been in Cork for a mandolin workshop that Macdara and Marla FIbish had been leading. Jorma is also holding a Sobell Mandolin, not a common sight, and we form the Sobell Corner of the session. There are two other mandolinists, an older fellow like myself playing 5 string banjo and singing, Macdara on fiddle and bouzouki, Victoria on banjo, a young woman who plays Uillean pipes and is very good, James on flute, Morgan on fiddle, and myself. A little after things start a young couple join us, he on banjo and she on concertina. The two hours fly by and there’s lots of great craic (banter) between tunes. Jorma wants a photo of he and I holding our Sobell’s. He’s in email contact with Stephen Sobell and wants to send him the photo of us holding our instruments.
Macdara wants to see my new instrument and is very complementary. I’m looking at his as well and soon we’re talking about neck attachment, finishes and other details. One of the mandolinists, who is from Berkley, CA also builds mandolins, so we had lots of fun talking shop. I inquired about Macdara’s new workshop. When we were last over he was beginning to build his new space out. He seems quite happy with his new space and hopefully we’ll get a chance to see it. Macdara has some playing engagements on the continent and doesn’t return until July 12.
So ends day 2.
Day 3
Yesterday all of us slept in. It’s extraordinary for me to ever sleep past 7:00-7:30 but I woke up close to 10:00, Morgan later than I and Bridget wandered down shortly after I woke. I’d been contacted by good friends Karen and Paul Lindholdt from Spokane. They’re Floating Crowbar fans as well as friends. They’ve been traveling in Scandinavia and wanted to join us for a couple of days and see how we adventure. They drove down from Dublin and we linked up yesterday afternoon at Ma Murphy’s Pub. They were both remarking how much they were enjoying Ireland and the Irish. It turns out that Karen, who is a lawyer is working with Bridgets cousin, Bridget Condon. Circles within circles, it’s a small world. We told them to meet us later at Ma’s that there would be a session.
Before we met up with Paul and Karen we all went to the schoolhouse where the Exhibition for Violin and Bow Makers is. Morgan knows most of the participants. It’s in a large room and the tables are all arrayed with some extraordinary contemporary work. There are 11 violin makers and 8 bow makers. Many of them are working at makeshift benches and the public are encouraged to visit. I loved looking at the bows, violins and violas. The skills displayed are incredible. Niall asked to see my bouzouki so Bridget and I went out to the car and grabbed it. Niall was highly complementary as was Kees. Receiving their praise means so much to me, these are both skilled practitioners of their craft who don’t hand compliments out easily. One of the bow makers is Noel Burke. Noel is internationally known, as are many who are here are. His older brother is Kevin Burke. For those of you reading this who aren’t into the history of modern Irish Trad music I’ll do a slight digression. Kevin Burke is a fiddle player, born in London to Irish parents. He studied fiddle at a young age and was playing professionally by age 13. He was the fiddle player in The Bothy Band, one of the seminal revival groups of the 1970’s and early 80’s. He then formed Patrick Street with Andy Irvine (Planxty), Jackie Daly and Arty McGlynn. They toured extensively, I was privileged to see them in Spokane in 1986. Kevin is one of a handful of highly influential players who keep the flame of Irish Trad music alive. The torch has been passed to younger players but Kevin is revered for his part. He’s still active.
Noel Burke is a revered bow maker and plays flute. So, after the exhibition closed for the day Noel and Morgan walked over to Ma Murphy’s and spoke with the owner Mary about whether we could come in and play some tunes. She agreed that that would be great. The four of us bid farewell to Paul and Karen who are going to come back for the session and we went home for dinner. James skillfully whipped a puntanesca together for the four of us. We got back to Ma Murphy’s at 9:00, met Noel, a French bow maker Eric Fournier and a few others. We went to a large room where a large group of the exhibitors were having dinner. Paul and Karen met us and got a feel for how things roll here. At one point Karen said to James, “do you find yourself drinking more in Ireland?” James burst out laughing. The session was wonderful, several of the exhibitors play so we had Jeremy and Noemie join Noel, James, Morgan and I. We didn’t stop until after midnight. On our way out our new friend Doug, whom we met in the Super Value market (that’s how it is in Ireland, you find yourself in a friendly conversation and soon you’ve a friend). Doug’s a talker and a story teller and he regaled us with tales of an uncle who ran away to sea and had some larger than life, outrageous adventures. I’ll try to piece those together and post them later.
So ends day 3